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Written by Savi, 79 Comments
Sights you can expect on a winter road trip in Iceland

 

Winter in Iceland is surreal – there are windstorms one minute and dancing Northern Lights the next. Biting cold one day and sunny skies the next. Treacherous hikes that take you to delicate waterfalls made up entirely of icicles. And gorgeous drives that end at frozen lakes. It is truly a land where Mother Nature rules supreme in all her glory – a land like no other. If you enjoy winter holidays and are planning a winter road trip in Iceland, here is everything you’ll need including tips, suggestions, and a day by day itinerary.

 

Fact File

When to go on a Northern Lights winter road trip in Iceland : November – March

 

Getting there : Many airlines offers affordable and convenient connections from dozens of cities in Asia, Mainland Europe, UK, and USA to Reykjavik, Iceland. There are several direct and indirect connections. We would suggest comparing costs and booking the most convenient option. We fley with WOW air at the time (direct flight from Paris).

 

What to expect on your winter road trip in Iceland : Northern Lights, frozen waterfalls, glacier hikes, unpredictable weather, fields of snow, ice caves, hot springs

 

What to pack for your winter road trip in Iceland : Full body thermals, insulated gloves, warm hats, waterproof and warm down jacket or parka, wool jumpers, ski trousers. Check out our articles on packing for an Icelandic summer and packing for the Arctic for some more tips and suggestions.

 

Budgeting for your winter road trip in Iceland : Iceland is an expensive country. Expect to spend at least €280 (INR 25000) per day for a couple. This includes accommodation costs, car costs, fuel costs, 1-2 day tours, mid-range meals, and groceries.

 

A word of warning about driving in winters: The weather in Iceland can be erratic, even more so in winter months. Always check vedur.is and road.is before leaving for sight-seeing as roads could be closed and/or hazardous to drive on. Please do read our tips for driving in Iceland in winters. 

Horses walking on snow in Iceland
You can expect scenes straight out of Game Of Thrones 🙂

 

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There are many things I enjoy about blogging but my favourite part is that blogging is a dialogue, a two-way conversation that excites me to no end. You benefit from our suggestions but we learn ever so much from you too. Almost 3 years ago, when we first went on a summer road trip in Iceland, we rented a car and booked some super scenic accommodation. You can book a package (car and accommodation) with a provider like Hey Iceland or you can easily book separate accommodation based on your choices (read more below). Hundreds  of you ended up going to the same exact cottages and B&Bs we wrote about. And suggested we should revisit during winter months.

So this time around, we returned to Iceland for a winter road trip in the country. Before you whizz off on your road trip in Iceland, make sure you read our top tips for planning a winter road trip in this gorgeous island. The most important thing to keep in mind is that you shouldn’t strive to be too ambitious – days are short and roads can be inaccessible during snowy days. Be realistic and try to make sure you don’t put extremely long drives on your itinerary at all.

 

Keeping this in mind, if you choose an 8-10 day itinerary, expect to budget around EUR 2500 per couple for the car, a portable wifi device, and accommodation. The prices can vary depending on the type of room and car you choose, and of course the time of the year you go in. We had rooms/cottages with private bathrooms and a 4X4 car for the price listed above. Here’s the itinerary we followed along with details of the guesthouses and cottages we chose. We’ve included lots of tips so you can plan you own winter road trip to Iceland seamlessly 🙂

Winter road trip in Iceland's Snaefellsness Peninsula
Hey! Iceland 🙂

 

Day 1 – Keflavik Airport

We flew into Iceland quite early and collected our car at the airport. Please book your rental car wisely while planning your winter road trip. Make sure you opt for a sturdy 4X4 which is equipped with snow tyres and heated seats. You should also ensure that your car comes with a mobile wifi device. This is handy in all countries but especially important in Iceland where the weather in unpredictable – you could need wifi to check road and weather conditions in real time or even contact someone for help in case you’re stranded. Alternatively you could purchase a local sim with data.

 

Once you have your car, drive out of the airport area and stop at one of the large supermarkets in the outer Reykjavik region. Bonus, Kronan, and Netto are some of the most cost-effective supermarkets in Iceland, so try to choose one out of them. Pick lots of groceries and snacks as large supermarkets are hard to find once in the Icelandic countryside.

 

Once you’ve stocked up well, it’s time to kick start an exciting winter road-trip in Iceland. Our first destination is the southern part of the incredible corner of Iceland known as the Snaefellsness Peninsula.

Icelandic horses in a farm in Iceland
You’ll encounter plenty of these handsome creatures on your drives 🙂

 

Accommodation In Snaefellsness

Langaholt Guesthouse,  makes for a perfect base to explore this area. It’s also the perfect place to spot Northern Lights if the aurora forecast is good! The rustic farmhouse is owned by a charming couple, passionate about preserving Icelandic culture. Rooms are spacious and well-heated. Try to ask for one of their corner rooms, because those boast of large windows overlooking the the ocean or the mountains of Snaefellsness Peninsula. Breakfast is included. It is typically Icelandic with lots of pickled fish, rye bread, fresh fruit, and a variety of breakfast cereal. Wifi is available in common areas. We loved the personalised nature of service at Langaholt Farmhouse and would definitely recommend it to everyone. Do try the grilled fish at their restaurant – it’s their speciality!

Langaholt guest house in Snaefellsness - room facing the ocean
Our room overlooking the ocean – saw some stunning sunrises from our room 🙂

 

Northern Lights over a cottage in Snaefellsness Peninsula in Iceland
We saw Northern Lights on both our nights at Langaholt 🙂

 

Days 2-4 Snaefellsness Peninsula

The first stop on this winter road trip is the truly dramatic Snaefellsness Peninsula. It acts as a great introduction to Iceland’s majestic countryside. Expect handsome gorges, black lava beaches, and stunning natural rock formations.

 

There are dozens of things to do in the area but we would recommend trying to pencil in at least these 4 things on your road trip itinerary:

  1. The Black church of Budir might be small but it’s signature black colour and unique setting make for a perfect scene. It is a must visit if you are a keen photographer. Go for a hike in the surrounding fields or just admire the surreal scenery here.
  2. Langaholt is famous for its distinctively yellow beaches. You will see tons of black lava beaches in Iceland but a golden beach is hard to find. Spend some time there and make sure you admire Snæfellsjökull Glacier looming in the distance
  3. Mount Kirkjufell is one of our favourite places in all of Iceland. This distinctively shaped mountain, next to a cascading waterfall, can be spotted in many postcards of Iceland. Things can get quite windy around here during winter months, so we’d suggest covering up well. Mount Kirkjufell also makes for an incredible spot to catch the Northern Lights on a clear day. To get to Grundurfjordur and Mt. Kirkjufell from Langaholt, take road 56 – it’s truly gorgeous, especially in winters. That said, make sure you check the road conditions before departing.
  4. The dramatic Hellnar Arch is a must visit but only if the weather is good. Opt for a clear day to explore this gem. There is a short hiking trail here (2.5 kilometres) that offers a stunning views of the surrounding area.
  5. Drive road number 574 around Snæfellsjökull glacier – while we could not do it on our road trip due to adverse weather conditions, if you get the chance, definitely do it as it has some stunning scenery.
Black church of Budir in Snaefellsness
The gorgeous Black Church of Budir

 

Mt. Kirkjufell covered in snow in winter
Mt. Kirkjufell – one of the most photographed sights in Iceland

 

A church in extreme weather in Snaefellsness
Beautiful views in Snaefellsness – notice the powerful winds?

 

Days 5-7 The Golden Circle and South West Iceland

It is time to explore some of Iceland’s iconic attractions. This is the time to chase frozen waterfalls (some even flowing over lava), hike  along volcanic craters, and enjoy the country’s wild outdoors with a side of some magnificent Northern Lights. Here are some sights you must see during these days of your winter road trip in Iceland

  1. Start early from Langaholt on Day 5 and take a detour to visit Hraunfossar – this was our first time visiting this waterfall, and we weren’t disappointed. These falls are often referred to as “Lava Falls” – water seeps through lava and falls into the Hvita river. Moreover, the drive to Hraunfossar takes you through some remote and stunning panoramas – definitely worth a visit. Once done, drive straight to the next accommodation (see later). You will drive through the Hvalfjörður Tunnel and have to pay ISK 1000 but it will save you almost an hour of driving round the fjord.
  2. The highlights of the Golden Circle need no introduction whatsoever. They are covered by most tourists visiting the country. Spend a day visiting the magnificent Gullfoss Waterfall, exploring Thingvellir National Park. and marvelling at spouting hot springs at Geysir
  3. Make sure you put the surreal Kerid, a volcanic crater lake, on your list. We visited it both during summer months and winter months, and the two sights are as different as could be. During winter months the lake is completely frozen and you can even walk on it!
  4. Spend some time exploring the waterfalls in the area. Our favourites include Seljalandsfoss (yes this is the one in which you can walk behind the falls but that path is often closed in winters) and Skogafoss. Iceland’s waterfalls are gorgeous during all seasons but other-worldly during winter months because dripping water frequently metamorphoses into icicles – it almost seems like time stands still here.
Hraunfossar lava waterfalls in Iceland
Hraunfossar or Lava Waterfalls – notice the streams and the icicles 🙂

 

Frozen gulfoss waterfall at sunset in Iceland
Almost frozen Gulfoss at Sunset – the hordes of tourists had departed 🙂

 

frozen lake kerid in Golden Circle of Iceland
Frozen Lake Kerid – you can actually walk on it 🙂

 

Seljalandsfoss waterfall and bridge
Straight out of a winter wonderland – Seljalandsfoss waterfalls near Hella

 

Accomodation 2

The scenic Hestheimar Guesthouse was one of the highlights of our winter road trip in Iceland. The guesthouse boasts of both rooms and independent cottages – we chose the latter and would definitely recommend you do the same. 6 cottages are nestled tidily on a slope away from the main building. Each cottage houses a fully-equipped kitchen, 2-3 beds, spacious bathroom, and a large balcony. The best part? You don’t need to make your way to the breakfast buffet each morning. A generous basket, packed with jams, yogurts, breads, cold-cuts, milk, and cookies is handed over to guests each evening. You can wake up at leisure and enjoy breakfast to a spectacular view of snow-covered fields dotted with wild horses. Hestheimar Guesthouse is close to the attractions of The Golden Circle, yet it is situated away from the hustle bustle of the area. The lack of ambient light or activity maximises your chances of spotting the Northern Lights if you are visiting during winter months. In fact we saw the Northern Lights every single day at Hestheimar Guesthouse. Highly recommended!

couple on winter road trip in Iceland
The two of us outside our cottage on our winter road trip in Iceland

 

Hestheimar cottages in Iceland near Golden Circle
Spacious cottages with a porch and expansive views at Hestheimar Gueshouse – it’s gorgeous 🙂

 

Northern lights over cottage in South Iceland
We saw The Northern Lights every single night we were here 🙂

 

 

Days 7-8 Jokulsarlon, Ice Caves, and The Diamond Beach

Now onto my favourite part of this winter road trip – a lagoon full of floating icebergs next to a lava beach strewn with rocks of ice! How often do you hear all those words together in a sentence?!

 

The Jokulsarlon area is one of my favourites to visit during winter months. We recommend doing the following things – do not leave without checking them all off your list

  • Mornings at Jokulsarlon are splendid. Try getting there before the tour buses and you might even get a stretch of the lagoon all to yourself. If the main visiting area is crowded with tourists, just drive to the viewing platform across the bridge and you’ll get some peace and quiet. We spent many an hour just gazing at the mesmerising icebergs floating in the lagoon – their leisurely rhythm is almost hypnotic.
  • Visit the truly unique Diamond Beach – a black lava beach which is dotted with hundreds of glistening rocks of ice that have been washed ashore. I haven’t seen another place like it! Just walk down the beach in case the main stretch is crowded. The crowds will thin as you keep walking along the beach and soon you’ll have it entirely to yourself.
  • Explore the unique crystal caves of Iceland. Each year during winter, secret caves are formed under Iceland’s glaciers. This year we went into the caves and came away totally fascinated. It is not possible to visit the caves independently. We chose the Crystal Ice Cave Tour with Arctic Adventures. The actual tour requires minimal physical activity, so it’s ideal for families with young kids or elderly tourists. The tour starts off in a specially designed truck, made for glacial surfaces. A short drive leads to the entrance of the caves, where visitors are made to wear helmets and crampons. Following this you can explore the caves. The size of the caves differ from year to year and there are always other tour groups around. Nevertheless, it is a surreal experience. Glacial ice is SO blue here because it has been compressed over centuries and hasn’t been spoilt by the weather or UV rays of the sun.
  • If you’re looking for a more active excursion, we highly recommend a guided glacier hike in Iceland. It’s one of the best ways to experience the Icelandic wilderness. Just a word of caution – opt for a guided hike and do NOT attempt to do this independently, even if you are an experienced hiker. Guides are familiar with the glacial crevices et al and ensure that you enjoy the experience and come out of it unscathed.
  • If the skies are clear, definitely go back to Jokulsarlon at night – watching the Northern Lights dance over the glacial lagoon was one of the best experiences EVER 🙂
couple kissing at Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon
Beautiful mornings at Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon

 

couple enjoying sunrise at Diamond beach near Jokulsarlon
Diamond beach – Nature has its own ways 🙂

 

Crystal Ice Cave tour with Arctic Adventures in Iceland
Crstal Ice Cave with Arctic Adventures – one of the best winter experiences in Iceland

 

Northern Lights over Jokulsarlon glacier Lagoon in Iceland
Watching Northern Lights over Jokulsarlon – Check! 🙂

 

Accomodation 3

We opted for Gerdi B&B in this area. While the room was comfortable and the location fantastic, our stay wasn’t exactly great. For starters the bathroom in our room did not have a heater and we had to think twice before exiting the comfort of our heated room to enter the freezing bathroom. There was no hot water in taps at times, which is extremely inconvenient when it’s -15°C outside. These little niggles continued with the flush not working in communal toilet and a crowded breakfast area. For these reasons we would recommend opting to stay at Hali Country Hotel, which is right next to Gerdi. We stayed here during summer months and loved it. You can find all details about our time at Guesthouse Hali here

 

Guest House Gerdi near Jokulsarlon
Guesthouse Gerdi is in a beautiful location but does come with some niggles

 

Choose Guest House Hali in this area 🙂

 

The beautiful area surrounding Hali and Gerdi

 

Day 9 Reyjavik/Fly out of Keflavik Airport

As your road trip draws to a close, it is time to drive to Reykjavik. On this day, start early and spend some time at the Black Beach of Vik (Reynisfjara). The magnificent rock formations and towering basalt columns have made this little seaside town popular in TV shows and films as well. Vik offers a number of short hikes and is an ideal pit-stop for both photographers and bird-watchers. If time permits, you can also drive up to the church of Vik, perched atop a hill with commanding views over the ocean and the rock formations – it’s a truly magical sight, especially as the sun starts to dip.

church of vik at sunset with the rocks at the back
The church of Vik

 

Black sand beach Reynisfjara near Vik
Black sand beach near Vik – it’s beautiful but can get crowded

 

basalt columns at Reynisfjara black sand beach in Iceland
Loved the basalt columns here – feel so tiny next to Mother Nature

 

Once you reach Reykavik, you could spend  a couple of days in the city. If this is your first time in Iceland, we would highly recommend this. Reyjkavik is an exciting city, full of new-age cafés, restaurants, and bars. Check out our article on A Summer Road Trip In Iceland for some recommendations

Accommodation 4

As we had explored Reyjavik before, we chose to spend our last night at the same airport hotel we chose for our summer road trip in Iceland. Hotel Aurora Star (previously Hotel Smari) is located mere minutes away from the Keflavik Airport. It is perfect for your first and/or last night in Iceland if you have a morning flight to catch. Rooms are spacious, breakfast is plentiful, and wifi is fast. It is a 5 minute walk to the airport, so you needn’t wait for shuttle buses or hail a cab.

 

airport hotel near Iceland airport
Aurora star airport hotel (formerly Hotel Smari) is perfect if you have an early morning/late night flight from Keflavik Airport

 

With this our winter road trip in Iceland drew to a close – it was time to go home but not without everlasting memories of floating icebergs, glimmering crystal caves, the crunch of ice as we hiked that glacier, lava fields stretching to infinity, the dancing Northern Lights, and waterfalls frozen in time.

 

Goodbye Iceland! Until next time 🙂

Planning a longer road trip in Iceland? Then opt for this Iceland Road Trip itinerary 

Going on a road trip in Iceland? Check out all our articles on Iceland here  

79 thoughts on “A Winter Road Trip in Iceland: What to do and where to stay

  1. Hey guys, I can only say “Awesome”. all the pics are really beautiful.. me and my wife along with another couple planning a road trip this coming July..

    I had one question though, how is the mobile network on route 1.?

    Thanks.. Aditya

  2. Wanted to know if we looking to visit iceland in the month of september end october, following your ring road itinerary, ,are there changes of seeing the northern lights then?

  3. Hey! As always extremely helpful!
    I notice you havent included the north east part..Myvtan area. Is that due to weather or other reasons??

    1. Hi Molshree – you will find all information on Myvatn in our summer road trip in Iceland. It was experiencing heavy windstorms when we visited during winter, so we didn’t include it!

  4. Hi,

    In which month did you guys went for the Winter road trip? We are planning for Feb but just worried if it will be tough to drive the roads.

    1. Hey Sappy – it is challenging for sure. Would suggest being careful if you haven’t drive in snow before

  5. hi loved your post really helpful.
    can u please tell me which month should we plan visiting iceland ? winter days are too short and summer days too long to see aurora boralis..so was thinking hows september october for iceland visit?

    Thanks

    1. Hey Mehul – September/October is a good time for a roadtrip in Iceland but there is no guarantee you will be see the Northern Lights at that time

      1. Hello ..

        Just wanted to know is Iceland better than Finland?

        Or we can plan both together??

        Which place is a must visit??

        1. Both countries have their own pros and cons – I’d stay start with Iceland. Wouldn’t suggest planning them together as it would get a little repetitive and expensive too!

  6. Hey guys!! Love the article.

    We are planning a trip this October. You think it should be a good time to visit for the northern lights and other attractions?

    1. Hey Stuti – yes October is a great time. Of course it’s really hard to predict things like Northern Lights, but hope you see them 🙂

  7. Hey Save and Vid,
    Thanks for such a good article about iceland. its really helpful.
    We are visiting iceland in november 2nd week.
    v are there for about 6 nights and 6 days as 7th day v have a morning flight back home.
    need some suggestions from both.
    V r two couples travelling together. do u suggest we should take the self drive tour or stay in reykjavik and take day tours. the self drive option looks very attractive but we are very doubtful of the weather. so very confused how should we plan our trip?
    kindly help by advising us.
    Thanks.

  8. Hi Savi & Vid,

    Another lovely article! Thank you for sharing your experiences . Would you be able to advise on travel without a self driven car? We did the hop on hop off tours in NZ and found it very convenient.How about iceland ?

  9. hey, we are planning to go this November and are looking at following your itenary. However, there’s a question we have in mind. Why did you guys skip the blue lagoon? is it not supposed to be the main attraction of Iceland?

    1. hey Riddhi – we visited Blue Lagoon on our first trip to Iceland and despite being pretty, we thought it was overhyped and overrated – so didn’t vist it this time around 🙂

        1. Hi Savi,
          I am planning for iceland tour in oct end and my plan is for 4 days. Will that be sufficient, which places should i exclude?
          Also i wont be able to take self driven car..should i take a tour or city buses

          1. Hey Tushar – if you’re going for 4 days you can either stay in Reykjavik and do day trips around. In that case, public transport is just fine. But if you’re comfortable driving, then we’d suggest renting a day and exploring South Iceland in the 4 days you have 🙂

  10. Hey we are planning to go in February
    First fortnight for our honeymoon

    Do u think it will be a good option?

    Any chances it will still be a good time for northern lights?

  11. Hi Guys,

    I follow you on Instagram and love all your posts. We are planning to go to Iceland this Winter (mostly mid-November) and would like to know which month did you go for the Winter road trip?

      1. Thanks Savi,

        Is it safe to travel during mid-November? We wanted to do Myvtan area and Hvitserkur too. What precautions would you recommend. I know you didn’t travel to Myvtan in November. But this is our first trip to Iceland.

        1. Hey yes – it’s absolutely safe unless there is a snow storm. You can keep checking weather conditions while you are there 🙂

  12. Hi guys,
    I enjoyed reading your trip to Iceland in winter. It was wonderful. I have one question. There is one accommodation where you guys stayed in a cottage by the lake. Where is this place and what is the name of this Airbnb? Thanks.

    1. Hi Jasbir,

      I think you might be referring to our summer trip – just search “Iceland” on our site and you will find all our articles there with extensive details about where to stay and name of the properties 🙂

  13. hi
    i am planning to visit iceland from 27/3 -7/4/2019.
    is this time OK?
    what will be the weather condition as fas as snow storms are concerned.
    Snow status on roads and around. planning to take guided tour.
    any special precaution for senior citizens.
    thank you

    1. Hello!

      Yes that is a good time to visit but no one can predict or tell you how the weather will be at that time or whether there’ll be snow storms. There shouldn’t be but you should always be prepared for adverse weather in places like Iceland 🙂 Roads are never a problem even in heavy snow!

  14. Hi Savi
    Love the breathtaking pics and all the details you provide. ..makes life so easy for 1st time visitors like us. What do you think of 1st week of Sept!

    1. Thank you 🙂 You might want to push it to October if you want to (potentially) see Northern Lights. Otherwise September is great too – many hours of daylight !!

  15. Hi Savi and Vid,

    I am following bruissedpassports for quite a long time. I love your posts and pictures. My husband and I are planning to visit Iceland in December for Northern lights for about 10 days and want to cover other countries apart from Iceland. Can you please suggest which will be the best place to visit along with Iceland?

    Thank you!

    1. Hey Rupjeet – you can combine your road trip in Iceland with a city break in Paris or Helsinki 🙂

      1. Hey Savi!
        We are planning a rather short trip in January, no more than 5 days. What places would you suggest are a must visit and what could wait for a summer trip later?!
        Thanks for the wonderful tips..

        1. Hey winters and summers in Icland are very different experiences – so you can pick depending on what you like better. In winter you’ll get Northern Lights and snow laden landscapes. In summer, you’ll get 24 hours of daylight and gorgeous waterfalls and scenic hikes 🙂

  16. Hello 🙂 During which dates did you exactly travel ? Just want to predict how the weather will be during my travel.\

    Thanks!

      1. Hi Savi and Vid
        Love your pictures and article about Iceland!
        We are planning a trip to Iceland with our parents, but a bit confused on the dates, in your view which month would you recommend to be better for Iceland – Dec 24th – Dec 29th or Feb first week? We are planning to self drive, and also interested in whale watching – but our parents will also be there with us so just wanted to check what dates would you recommend?
        Thank you ?

        1. Hey Eesha – everything in Iceland is super pricy during Christmas time as it is peak time. If you can, we’d recommend picking February first week so you can enjoy the exact same things at a lesser price 🙂 Whale watching with parents isn’t a problem

  17. Hello Savi and Vid,

    Many many thanks for the guidance offered by you. We are planning a trip in Feb ’20 and plan to do the 8/9 day tour like you did. While looking at Hey Iceland’s self drive tours, were you given the option to choose your own location and accommodation on any given day? For example, when i try to select the self drive tour, I am not being given an option to select the same accommodations as you did (at least till i reach the section where I have to make the payment). Not sure if I will be given a choice after I make the payment. I have reached out to the Hey Iceland team but I thought I will check with you as well because you had gone through the process.

    Many thanks again

    1. Hey Dave,

      When we booked, we were given these options as sometimes the ones advertised on their tour page are not available (as their booking engines are not real-time). Just drop them an email and tell them where you’d like to stay and if those places are available for your dates I’m sure Hey Iceland will be happy to accommodate (there might be a difference in prices but always best to check directly with them :))

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    1. Hi guys.
      Wonderful pictures and great info.
      My husband and I are planning a trip to Iceland in February and we want to do the self drive tour with Hey Iceland. However we have never driven in winter conditions ( we are from Bangalore) so would you suggest we hire a private driver for our rental car? Would that be safer? We’ve heard stories of inexperienced drivers having accidents there.

      1. Hey Krithi – renting a driver in Iceland is exorbitant. If you cannot drive yourself, would suggest using public transport 🙂

  19. I have seen that every person wants to express their feelings but they are not able to express their feelings properly in words but the content you have written in your post is very beautiful, it seems that you have expressed your feelings Has expressed. Hi, you are a person who writes a very beautiful post, in the same way, you keep writing new posts in your life, our best wishes are with you.

  20. Hi Savi & Vid,

    Do we require a 4 by 4 for travelling to Snaefellsness. We are travelling in the month of mid october.
    Also will be possible to cover the entire ring road, as we plan to travel from mid October to end of October.

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